Surfing and Hawaii have gone hand-in-hand for
a long time, since the island’s royalty adopted it as their sport of choice. For the traveller with a mission to surf some
of the world’s finest waves, it is the place to go: the water is warm, and
although the size of the surf is seasonal, the swell is consistently
impressive. Just after summer, the North shore has a huge swell that attracts
some big-time, high-power surfers. However, during the summer the water calms
down and although lovely for bathers, you can’t surf in it. When it gets flat
in the north, head down south where tropical storms from the south Pacific get
the swell going.You’ll probably find
reliable waves on most of the beaches, but here are a few to keep in mind if
you want to have a go yourself or simply watch the professionals show you how
it’s done.
Sunset Beach, and Pipeline are recommended
for experts only; but if you’re into your surf you should still make it over to
these parts of Oahu’s North Shore, where pro-surfers take on waves that can get
as high as 20 feet in the winter. The shore is so impressive that it hosts the
World Surf Championships in December. Head down and expect to see an all-star
line-up stirring up the crowds with their skills. If you want to get stuck in
too try the smaller waves at Lahaina
beach – they are consistent and well-suited to a beginner or an intermediate. Honolua
Bay too has some excellent waves that are well-worth a look.
In the south, a safe bet is Waikiki Beach,
because the surf is nice and easy and never too high. The waves are about three
feet in the summer and two in the winter. Waikiki is historically significant, because
of the legend Duke Kahanamoku - a guru to a generation of modern surfers, and
the quintessential surd dude. He made this beach his own in the 1920s and was
responsible for making the sport commercial. Most of the big guys surfing the
monster breaks on the North Shore will have started out on Waikiki’s smaller
waves on a long board.
If you are going to be hitting the surf
every day, don’t bother spending loads on accommodation, because you’re hardly
going to be there. You’ll need a base and a shower to clean you and your
wetsuit. Try HostelBookers, who have lists of hostels around the globe.
Hawaii caters for all types of surfer –
these are just a few of the many, decent and worthwhile spots you might want to
have a look at. Note that some of these beaches are as sacred as a holy temple
to some surfers, so watch where you put yourself in the water. Surf rage is
prevalent and stealing waves is a pretty bad move in shores that have become
quite tribal. So, get to know the locals, and learn the codes. Those that own
boards can easily pack one with them and carry it through their travels – just
make sure you get good travel
insurance for any damages or loss. Check out AA Travel for some good
backpacker’s deals.
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